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Costume Care

Instructions for how to wash, dry, store, and fix the CODE:MiAO uniform after a performance or film session.

Content Contributor(s):

CM

Documented by:

CM

Last Updated:

Apr 1, 2023



WASHING


Methods

  1. Spot clean only:

    1. Badge

    2. Prism pins

    3. Pompom

  2. Machine wash acceptable:

    1. Gloves

    2. Belt

  3. Below method:

    1. Collar

    2. Hair Accessories

    3. Main costume pieces



You’ll Need:

  1. All costume pieces (even hair pieces if you want)

  2. Large basin, like a bathtub or plastic bin

  3. Regular laundry detergent

  4. Optional: something to stir/agitate the water.

  5. DO NOT USE fabric softener.


Instructions:

  1. Remove all detachable pieces.

  2. Spot clean any areas with makeup/food/stains.

  3. Fill your basin with room temperature water.

    1. Every water temperature setting, including the “cold water” setting, on a washing machine is actually hot to the touch, enough to steam. You need to use water that does not feel warm to you. Room temperature is best. Ice water is too cold.

  4. Dissolve about 1 tablespoon of laundry detergent into the water. Do not use fabric softener.

    1. Stir it around to make sure it’s well dispersed. The water will not get sudsy.

    2. If you’d like, you may also dissolve a tiny amount of detergent booster into the basin too.

    3. There is bleach in laundry detergent. Be careful with your skin! Feel free to use a tool to stir the water.

  5. Fully submerge your costume in the water.

  6. Gently agitate the costume in the water for a couple of minutes

    1. If your costume is particularly grimey, you can agitate it for longer. 

  7. Leave the costume pieces to soak for 30-45 minutes.

    1. If your costume is particularly stinky, let it soak for up to 60 minutes, rinse, then replace with new water and detergent.

    2. Don’t let it soak for more than 60 minutes in the same water, as the dirty water could set in stains, and if there is too much detergent, it could eat the fabric.

  8. When it’s finished soaking, agitate it a couple times to shake away the loosened dirt.

  9. Drain the water.

  10. Gently rinse the detergent out of the fabric.




DRYING


Option 1: Dryer

  1. Place the pieces in the dryer (separate pink from the blue pieces as much as possible).

  2. Place 2 loosely crumpled balls of aluminum foil to reduce static. Do not use dryer sheets.

  3. Settings:

    1. Heat: Low

    2. Time: about 45-60 minutes


Option 2: Air Dry

  1. Lay the clothes flat.

  2. Notes:

    1. Do not place it in direct sunlight, as the sun can bleach the colors unevenly.

    2. Do not hang it to dry, as the waterlogged fabric will weigh down on the stitches and the stitches may come loose.

  3. Any metal pieces should be dried immediately (with a towel, hair dryer on the cold setting, etc) to avoid rusting. Rust is caused by slow air drying of moisture off metal.




IRONING


Sparkly Sheer Blue

  1. No iron. Maybe you can try steaming it.


Sheer Pink/Blue

  1. You can iron or steam this.

  2. Iron on the silk setting (medium/low).

  3. Spray with water

  4. Move the iron quickly. Don’t linger it in one place too long or you will completely melt the fabric. It will be sticky.


Blue/Black Metallic (Jacket, Skirt)

  1. I found that a steamer doesn’t really do much on this fabric but you can try it.

  2. Do not iron on any decals like the holographic logo, bows, etc.

  3. Turn the iron on to the polyester setting (low)

  4. Spray the fabric with water.

    1. The tricky thing with this is that steam + pressing seems to be best for removing wrinkles, but a higher heat is needed for the steam setting to work on the iron. That’s why spraying it with water should help.

  5. Iron the underside only. Move the iron around slowly.

    1. If you need to iron on the pattern side, do not iron directly on top of the metallic print.




STORAGE

You may hang the jackets and petticoats. If you have a heavy blue metallic skirt, it’s best not to hang it, but to fold it. Otherwise, the stitches could come loose.




REPAIRING

Loose Threads

  1. Snip off with some scissors. Don’t pull.

  2. If the thread continues to unravel, it may need to be stitched down.


Sheer Fraying Fabric

  1. Snip off excess frayed threads.

  2. Very quickly run a lighter back and forth over the frayed part. 

    1. Video tutorial. Do it much much faster than the woman in the video. 

    2. Don’t linger over a specific part for too long to prevent the fabric from melting or the threads from igniting. The fabric is polyester/nylon and will melt. The thread is cotton and will ignite/burn.

    3. Don’t use a candle. It will burn irregularly and eat at the fabric. Some tutorials on youtube will say to use a candle. It’s bad advice.

    4. If the fabric catches fire (it will light very easily), blow it out quickly.


White Fraying Fabric

  1. Do not snip off excess threads.

  2. Quickly run a lighter back and forth over the frayed parts.

    1. Video tutorial. Do not pull on the ends like the woman does in the video.

    2. Don’t linger over a specific part for too long to prevent the fabric from melting or the threads from igniting. The fabric is polyester and will melt. The thread is cotton and will ignite/burn.

    3. Don’t use a candle. It will burn irregularly and eat at the fabric. Some tutorials on youtube will say to use a candle. It’s bad advice.

    4. If the fabric catches fire (it likely won’t), blow it out quickly.

  3. Reinforce the stitches using a wide/close zig-zag stitch and a thin needle.

    1. On my machine, the width is a 5, and the closeness is a 1 (there are lower settings than 1).

  4. If the fabric edges are exposed because it was only folded over once, it may be best to fold the hem and stitch it down to complete a roll hem (folded twice).


Glue Not Holding

  1. Reglue with craft glue (options below). Do not try to repair it with hot glue. Hot glue is just silicone, which is infamous for being a “nonstick” surface. It does not stick well to metal and fabric.

  2. Both options below take a couple of minutes to solidify, so you’ll need to hold/clamp it in place and let it dry over time.

  3. Glue options:

    1. E6000

      1. Cost: about $6

      2. 72 hours to fully cure

      3. Dries solid as a rock

      4. Pro: Strongest, long-lasting hold for mixed materials (metal, plastic, fabric, etc)

      5. Con: Needs ventilation to use

    2.  Shoe Goo

      1. Cost: about $4

      2. 24 hours to cure

      3. Dries malleable/rubbery

      4. Pro: Also repairs shoes

      5. Con: Not as versatile as E6000


Holographic Logo on the Back of the Jacket Peeling/Lifting

  1. Make sure the fabric is completely dry.

  2. Place the jacket flat on an ironing board.

  3. Cover the logo entirely with a dry cotton/muslin fabric.

    1. Do not use polyester, acrylic, nylon, silk or any other fabric that has a tendency to melt in heat.

    2. Use a fabric that you’re okay with accidental staining, as the black banner on the back of the jacket tends to transfer to the cover cloth.

  4. Put the iron to the highest possible setting/linen setting. Do not use steam. Dry heat is best.

  5. Firmly press the iron over the cover cloth for 30 seconds.

  6. Flip the jacket over.

  7. Cover the other side with the cover cloth.

  8. Firmly press the iron over the cover cloth for 30 seconds.

  9. If the logo is still peeling, there may be no more adhesive left on the logo. You may need to purchase some iron-on adhesive from a sewing store, cut it out in the appropriate shape, and repeat the above steps.

    1. You can get it from a Walmart supercenter in the sewing section for around $2.


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